Lure of Everest : Story of The First Indian Expedition (An Old and Rare Book)

$28
Item Code: NAV491
Author: Brigadier Gyan Singh
Publisher: Publication Division, Ministry Of Information And Broadcasting
Language: English
Edition: 1989
Pages: 156 (Throughout B/W Illustrations)
Cover: PAPERBACK
Other Details 9.00X6.00 inch Depth
Weight 190 gm
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Book Description
FOREWORD

The Lure of Everest, the call of the high mountains, the quest of the almost unattainable, what is that draws, generatioh after generation, all mountaineers, to this brave and dangerous adventure? Great mountaineers have sought an answer to this question and found no adequate one. All they could say was that they felt this call and tried to answer it. Is it some part of the eternal quest of man, some overflow of that vital energy which has kept humanity going from age to age in its attempt always to reach some higher peak of human endeavour?

If, unfortunately, that vital spark became dim and the call was not heeded, perhaps the journey henceforth would be downhill. I have often wondered how far the tremendous advances in science and technology, resulting in the human element being progressively replaced by mechanical devices, might not weaken the spirit of man and ‘make him too much of a slave to the mechanical devices he himself has created. Probably not, as there is something unconquerable in that spirit which has survived innumerable follies in the past. Even if the conquest of Everest becomes a normal adventure, there will always be higher Everests to climb; even if, at some distant date, . ‘his earth of ours becomes rather common place and without mystery, there will always be other peaks to climb, other worlds to reach. There will be no lack of adventures of the mind and body for those« who are prepared to venture into uncharted seas and'climb unknown peaks of human endeavour.

There are many books on mountain climbing with all their accounts of risk and danger and success and failure. As we go up higher, our picture of the world changes and we live in a different world. Sometimes we lose even the clarity of our minds in the strange conditions that we experience. But the call continues to come and the spirit of man is ready to respond to it. Here is another book about the Himalayas with their crowning peak and a very gallant attempt, bravely carried: out. To talk of I success or failure in reaching the peak has no doubt some significance, and yet it has no great meaning. The story worth telling and worth listening to is the story of the effort, of dangers faced and I ‘overcome, of the camaraderie of those who jointly undertook this great task and of the close communion with these high peaks and mountain regions, where silence ever dwells and human beings come out of their little sliells and have glimpses of some of the deeper mysteries of nature.

As I followed, through the frequent reports that we used to get, the course of Brigadier Gyan Singh’s team, I shared with them, though of course is a much smaller degree, the excitements of the journey and I felt a little envious of these fortunate persons who were trying to climb up Everest. How I would have liked to be with them if only I had been younger and other obstructions had not come in my way!

This story is not a tale of defeat but rather of daily triumph over the difficulties encountered. 1 am sure that each one of this team is much the better for the unique experience and will treasure this memory always. It may be that the call to go up again will come to them; if sol am sure they will be eager to respond to it.

These Himalayan mountains have attracted people from afar, and I indeed it is the people from other countries who have braved them before an Indian team went up. Even so, the Himalayas are not only near to us, but very dear also for they have always been a ‘part of our history and tradition, our thinking and our poetry, our worship and our devotion; they are in our blood and are a part of our make-up. Though trained mountaineers did not organise expeditions in the past from India, innumerable pilgrims have wandered about their ' peaks and valleys and often spent years in deep thought there. For, according to our mythology, they are the abode of the gods.

We approach them therefore, as old friends who have guarded us and directed our gaze upwards. We do not go out to “conquer” them, but rather to visit an old friend, about whom we have thought for . ‘long, and pay our homage to them.

Trained mountaineering has not been popular in India in the past but among the many new things that are coming to-the mind of India .

in the present age, this lure-of the rnountains is one. I have welcomed I it and I have taken much pleasure in my association with the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute which itself was the outcome of the climb to the Everest peak by Hillary and Tenzing. The spirit and the lure-of the Himalayas is spreading now all over India among our young people, and that is a sign and a symbol of the new life and the new spirit that is coursing through India’s veins.

PREFACE

This is the story of the first Indian expedition to Everest. It is: ‘difficult to say what exactly draws men to the mountains, but those of I us who were privileged to be associated with the expedition will never be able to forget the rugged grandeur and beauty of the Himalayas as we journeyed towards Everest. It is true that our failure to reach the summit was a disappointment to us, and perhaps to many others who - followed our fortunes with keen interest. Nevertheless, if ] may say so in all humility, it was a moving experiénce, a great adventure, and a great expedition. Everest is no longer inviolable. It has been climbed more than once, and many more attempts will be made by mountaineers all over the world to reach the top. It is possible that other mountaineers will succeed in their attempt. I am certain. however, that despite the success of future expeditions, the lure of Everest will ever beckon mountaineers to attempt what for long seemed the impossible.

“Ours was the first attempt by an all-Indian‘expedition to reach the top of the world’s highest peak; and for the first time, the bulk of the equipment used was of Indian manufacture. On this and other accounts the story of the expedition is worth telling.

It is, however, one thing to climb a mountain and quite another to write about it, specially for me as most of my life, I have been a soldier and have done hardly any writing. There is no doubt that left to myself, I would not have written this book. The idea originated with some members of the Sponsoring Committee of the expedition, and in its writing I have received the most generous help and encouragement from the Committee and from numerous other friends.

During a short span of five or six years nearly a dozen Indian expeditions have.gone to the Himalayas. Our expedition had perhaps a larger number of members than any other known expedition. Also, it cost nearly as much as all other Indian expeditions put together. Among the expeditions which made attempts on Everest, ours was the thirteenth. I am not superstitious, and so I had no hesitation in having a team of thirteen climbing members. With a physiologist, a doctor, a ‘meteorologist and other technical and administrative personnel, there were 23 members in all and 55. Sherpas. Nearly 19 tons” of baggage was transported for which more. than 700 porters were recruited from Jaynagar. A team of three climbers reached a height of, 98.300 ft. Seven Sherpas. reached Camp VII at a height of 27,600 ft. and four climbers and 33 Sherpas reached the South Col (26,000 ft.). - The fury of elemental forces thwarted the attempts of our summit teams and deprived us of the glory of success; but it has given us invaluable experience. The expedition has returned rich in knowledge, not only of ‘mountaineering techniques, but useful scientific data on high-altitude physiology, meteorology, wireless communications and a number of other subjects: connected with mountaineering. As young.mountaineers we would be failing in our duty were we not to acknowledge the fact that if our téam reached a height of 28.300 ft. it was, as Sir John Hunt has aptly put “on the shoulders of previous Everesters”. I have valued very much the advice ‘and guidance I have received from Sir John Hunt and Mr. Albert Eggler, both of whom were in touch with me, not only during the planning phase, but even when we were on the mountain. Their letters gave us inspiration when we needed it most.

The weather forecasts of the Meteorological Department broad cast to us through the courtesy of All India Radio were invaluable. The members of the expedition were fortunate to have received ericouragement and assistance from Mr. Humayun Kabir, Minister for Scientific Research and Cultural Affairs;: Mr. V.K. Krishna - Menon, Minister for Defence; Dr. B.C. Roy, Chief Minister of West Bengal; General K.S: Thimayya, D.S.O., Chief of Army Staff and: Vice-Admiral R.D. Katari, Chief of Naval Staff. The late Air Marshal S. Mukerjee took keen personal interest in our work and he was a source of great encouragement to all of us. To them and to the Chairman and Members of the Sponsoring Committee we owe a deep debt of gratitude.

The expenses connected with the expedition were largely met by a grant from the Ministry of Scientific Research and Cultural Affairs. We are grateful to the Director General of Ordnance Factories for supplying many of:the items of equipment and stores for the ‘expedition—some of which were specially manufactured for us in record time; to Lt. Gen. B.M. Rao for guidance and assistance with ‘regard to medical cover; to Lt. Gen. B.M. Kaul and"Maj. Gen. W.T. Wilson for. several items of equipment. To Maj. Gen. A.C. lyeppa, Director of Signals, we are thankful for his keen interest and help with regard to communications equipment and other facilities for the expedition. I am deeply conscious of the support*t received from my friend and colleague, Tenzing, who was not only a great help in actual organization work and training of the team but also a source of inspiration to ‘us all. I would also like to acknowledge our-gratitude to the Swiss Foundation for Alpine Research. Having taken a keen interest in starting the Himalayan Mountaineering. Institute, this organization. considered the Indian Mount Everest expedition as their expedition and spared no-effort to make it possible. No less was the. assistance given by the French Mountaineering Federation of Paris, which ‘helped us in the procurement of equipment from France. It is my pleasant duty to express my sincere thanks to my friend George Patterson for his constant help and advice in the writing of this book. Mr. H.C. Sarin, a member of the Sponsoring Committee, read the entire book in manuscript more than once and I am most grateful to him for his many suggestions which have resulted in a noticeable improvement in language and presentation.

I would also like to tell the boys who formed the team how much I enjoyed being on the mountains with them. I shall always remember their hard work, friendship and loyalty.

I owe much to my mother for her blessings and to thy wife for her support at all times.

Above all we are most grateful to our Prime Minister, Mr. Jawaharlal Nehru, For his most generous intrest and encouragement; it has meant so much to us.

**Contents and Sample Pages**


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