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Banarasi sarees have always been in trend since the time of the Mughal invasion of India. Modernization has led to many changes in the fashion industry but the love for Banarasi sarees among Indian women has never been diminished. As the name suggests, Banarasi sarees originate from the holy city of India, Banaras or Varanasi, located in the state of Uttar Pradesh.

The diligent weavers of the city are the experts in designing beautiful handwoven sarees made of pure silk fabric (Banarasi silk), making them quite expensive to buy. They use gold and silver metallic threads to create heavy embroideries and this work is called Brocade or Zari.

Formerly, Banarasi sarees were handmade using metallic threads dipped in real gold and silver, and each saree would take around a year to make. Endowed with a brilliant and soothing shine all over, Banarasi sarees are undoubtedly the most beloved attire country-wide. Types of Indian Sarees.

Motifs And Embroideries in Pure Banarasi Sarees

Banarasi Silk is an example of unmatched artistry and it has its roots seeped into the rich tradition of India. Owing to their royal aura, Banarasi sarees come in a variety of patterns and designs.

☀ The most commonly found designs in these sarees are Bail Butti, Kalga, a string of upright leaves known as Jhallar, peacocks, paisleys, etc.

☀ The sarees also feature intricately woven floral and foliate patterns that attract all eyes.

☀ One may also find the pallu of Banarasi sarees adorned with an exquisite light or heavy embroidery work with lustrous Zari artistry that grants them an opulent look.


Raspberry Banarasi Silk Saree With Heavy Beaded Mirror Sequins & Thread Work All-over

Types of Banarasi Sarees

As per the classification based on designs, the beautifully crafted Banarasi sarees come in different types as mentioned below:

1. Jangla

☀ As the name implies, Jangla is a type of design that features all-over “Jaal” characteristic motifs woven with colorful silk threads.

☀ These intricate vegetation motifs are devoid of silver or gold zari work that distinguish Jangla Sarees from other Banarasi sarees.

☀ This pattern spreads across the entire length of the saree and the appealing detailing on a luxurious fabric makes these sarees apt to don at wedding ceremonies.

☀ One may also find beautiful Meena work on the border and pallu in Jangla Banarasi sarees which adds an extravagance.


Almond-Buff Banarasi Cotton Saree With All-Over Jangla And Zari Detailing

2. Butidar Saree

☀ The specialty of Butidar sarees is the extensive work of silver, gold, and pure silk threads running all through the saree.

☀ Due to the gold brocade appearing darker than the silver one, the Banarasi weavers also refer to this brocading variety as ‘Ganga-Jamuna’.

☀ The various traditional motifs and patterns that feature Butidar sarees are Angoor Bail, Patti Butti, Lichhi Butti, Baluchar Bail, Kalma Butti, etc.

☀ Without any Zari work characterizing them, these sarees stand out for the richness of their look.


Autumn-Glory Banarasi Silk Saree With All-Over Patola Bail Butta

3. Tanchoi

☀ Tanchoi sarees are one of a kind that are made of special weaving techniques involving colorful weft silk yarns and do not feature any zari work.

☀ Commonly found motifs are the Jamawar style paisleys intricately woven on silk fabric.

☀ These sarees also feature small weaving patterns such as peacocks, parrots, flowers, and birds in flight.

☀ The borders of Tanchoi Banarasi sarees are beautified with pieces of thread in a criss-cross pattern that gives an appearance of being embroidered.

☀ Another inimitable feature of these sarees is that the silk fabric gives a satin finish in the background.


Black-Maroon Overall Herringbone Weave Banarasi Silk Tanchoi Sari With Gold Bootis On Pallu And Border

4. Cut Work Saree

☀These types of sarees employ the cut-work technique on a plain textured fabric.

☀ They are prepared by placing a few warp threads with cotton and weft to produce traditional designs and patterns.

☀ The most common motifs that are featured in Cut-work Banarasi sarees are flowers such as Jasmine and Marigold, creepers, and leaves.

5. Tissue Saree

☀ Tissue sarees are one of the most glamorous Banarasi sarees that come with golden zari work.

☀ The most popular designs used in tissue sarees are golden zari woven lotus floating in a radiant pond, where the water drops are designed with a cut work technique. 

☀ The borders and pallu of these sarees are generally adorned with handwoven running paisley motifs.

☀ Due to the glimmering fabric that grants this Banarasi beauty a charming essence, it is also known as the ‘golden cloth’.


Wedding Tissue Sari from Banaras with All-Over Woven Flowers

Draping the Original Banarasi Saree Perfectly

Due to the rich zari work over the pure Banarasi silk fabric, these sarees get relatively heavier than other sarees, but heavy Banarasis can be perfectly draped by any woman without much effort. These sarees are woven by the artisans in such a manner that they give a fresh essence to the person draping them.

Below are some tips to follow for a graceful drape of your Banarasi saree:

Set the pleats right

Let’s be honest. It is the way the pleats of the saree have been set that gives a graceful look to the entire saree. Banarasi sarees appear bulky when draped, and thus, the pleats coming down from the waist need to be structured and aligned in the best possible way. Make sure to create broad pleats in a regular manner.


Amber-Yellow Banarasi Slub Saree With All-Over Floral Motif And Multicolor Bail Butta On Border

Loosen the Pallu

Pallu drapes have the power either to make or break your look. To show off your favorite Banarasi in its full glory, allow the pallu to fall freely from the shoulder and make all heads turn your way.


Medieval-Blue Banarasi Handloom Sari with Heavily Brocaded Patterns All-over and Floral Pallu

Highlight the pretty borders

Banarasi sarees are known for their luminous sheen on their elegant borders, and while draping the saree, ensure that it is not folded under any pleats on the shoulders. When the borders are perfectly highlighted, the look of the saree is enhanced even more.


Hot-Pink Soft Silk Banarasi Saree With Brocaded Floral Motif

Why choose Banarasis? 

Banarasi Sarees are unarguably the finest of all the other sarees and have become every woman’s favorite. Known for their extravagance in design, their lustre in fabric, and their graceful look, pure Banarasi sarees make for one of the must-haves in the wardrobe of every fashion fanatic. Coming in a wide variety of fabric textures and colors, you can wear them on every occasion.

Now that you know everything about the Banarasis, wait no more and get yourself one to attract the most attention and praise. 

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  • Great and informative content. Precisely written. Enjoyed reading the blog!! Keep going .
    Prashansa July 05, 2023