Kashmiri artisans craft Pashmina shawls using ultra-fine wool from the Changthangi goat, native to the Himalayas. The process involves collecting, cleaning, spinning, dyeing, and weaving delicate threads by hand. Every shawl reflects centuries-old craftsmanship, cultural heritage, and natural beauty. These handmade Pashminas are valued for their warmth, softness, and timeless artistry, representing the luxurious spirit of Kashmir’s textile tradition.
Few textiles in the world carry the legacy, warmth, and artistry of Kashmiri Pashmina. Woven by hand from the rare wool of the Changthangi goat, each shawl is a masterpiece born from patience and precision. Behind every soft drape lies a centuries-old tradition a meticulous process that transforms raw mountain fibers into luxurious wraps treasured across the globe.
Lucky for us, the Kaarigars- Kashmiri craftsmen have mastered this craft along with the art of patience while dwelling in the valley, where Mother Nature herself trains them to be persistent. Shawls worn by the people of Kashmir are usually “homespun”- made by men and women after collecting wool from the goats, at home.
For the high quality, artistically embellished shawls that are appreciated by the refined international and national collectors of Indian luxury items, the production happens in the workshop or “Karkhana” of the master weaver, known as “Ustaad”. The value of the finished Pashmina is assessed by the time that went into the process, the labor dedicated to the different steps of production, and the intricacy of weaving and embroidery.
The most important part of a Pashmina shawl, the fiber that brings to the woven textile its world-famed seamless silken feel, is collected from the skin of a domestic goat known as Capra hircus, Changthangi, or Changpa.
This fiber is known as Pashm, more commonly as Cashmere, and grows naturally beneath the upper layer of the goat’s furs. Besides Pashm, another more delicate fiber is derived from two wild animals- the ibex and the chiru, who are found abundantly in the valley of Kashmir. This is called “tus”, availing which is a challenging task for the collectors.
A single goat yields barely 150–170 grams of usable Pashm a year. The limited quantity, combined with painstaking manual collection, makes true Pashmina one of the most exclusive natural fibers on earth. Ethical herding practices ensure the goats remain unharmed, and the wool is cleaned and graded by hand in Kashmir’s villages before spinning begins.
Every strand collected is a testament to sustainable Himalayan living and centuries of inherited skill setting the foundation for the unmatched warmth and lightness of genuine Pashmina.
Once the hardworking collectors have the prized raw material, the coarse tuft needs to be converted into soft yarns. Womenfolk in the Kashmiri household take time from doing their everyday chores and masterfully complete this seemingly artless task.
The yarns are spun on spinning wheels or “yender”, done by women in the warmth of their homes. To process 50 grams of Pashmina, around 20-25 hours are devoted by the women which means that this procedure, much like any other step that undergoes in making a Pashmina shawl, is doable only for those who possess an abundance of skill and perseverance.
Unprocessed Pashm yarn contains natural oil, which is removed from the fiber by mixing it with rice flour. Each strand of Pashm is separated and placed on a wooden comb, thus removing any dirt or fine impurity from it. The strands are then spun into yarns, doubled, and twisted to give the gentle threads some resistance.
During this process, the weavers have to take special care that they do not break too many tufts and yarns, a task which is extremely difficult owing to the fragility of the material. This delicate balance of precision and intuition is why true Pashmina cannot be machine-made, it requires the warmth of human touch.
After spinning, the pristine Pashmina yarns await color an art form mastered by Kashmiri dyers who use pigments drawn from plants, roots, bark, and minerals. Shades of saffron, madder red, walnut brown, and indigo blue are carefully blended to echo the hues of the Himalayan landscape. Each batch is simmered at precise temperatures so the fragile fibers retain their silky sheen. The natural dyes not only enrich the fabric’s tone but also make every Pashmina shawl unique and eco-friendly, a harmony of art and sustainability.
After the yarns are obtained, natural colors are used by the makers to add seamless vibrancy to the Pashmina threads. Adding color to the yarns allows the weavers to have multiple colors on the same threads, which creates gorgeous patterns on the finished products. Whether colored as yarn or as fabric, every dyeing decision is made to enhance the shawl’s texture, breathability, and timeless beauty, ensuring the piece ages gracefully without fading.
The weaving of Pashmina takes place in looms placed inside the house of the weavers. Sitting on a bench attached to the loom, a male weaver operates the loom with his feet. The weft yarn (horizontally placed) for the weave is put inside a hollow cylinder, from which it slowly loosens without getting tangled. The weaver controls tension with every pedal press, ensuring the airy softness of Pashmina remains intact. Depending on design complexity, one shawl can take weeks or even months to complete.
The true artistry lies in achieving uniform weave density tight enough for strength yet light enough for breathability. Fine adjustments are made by touch and instinct, not by measurement. No two shawls are identical, as the artisan’s personal rhythm subtly shapes each piece.
To preserve authenticity, most looms still rely on hand-operated techniques, avoiding mechanical force that could damage the fragile yarn. The result is a fabric renowned for its lightness, warmth, and natural drape, unmatched by any synthetic alternative.
Once woven, the plain Pashmina becomes a canvas of imagination for Kashmir’s master embroiderers. The elaborate patterns on the body of Pashmina shawls are inspired by the blossoming beauty of Kashmir valley, its colorful flowers, birds, animals, and medieval art and architecture. Mughal motifs such as floral vines and paintings of rare and exquisite plants and birds are found in plenty on the Kashmiri shawls.
Popular motifs include the “Badam” (almond), “Gul-e-Anar” (pomegranate flower), “Poshkar” (flower bouquet), and “Punjdar” (five-petalled bloom) are some of the floral patterns used by Pashmina craftsmen. Shawls with embroidery visible only on one side, are called “ekrukha”, and more intricately designed shawls on which embroidery appears on both sides are known as “dorukha”. Each needle movement tells a story, turning fabric into wearable poetry.
The identity of every Kashmiri Pashmina shawl lies in its embroidery style, each requiring years of training and an intuitive sense of rhythm:
Kani Weaving, instead of post-weave embroidery, motifs are woven directly into the fabric using small wooden bobbins called Kanis. This style produces exquisite, tapestry-like design, is known as Kani shawls.
Sozni (or Sozani) Embroidery, a painstaking needlework technique using fine silk threads, where the sozankar (artisan) creates reversible patterns using fine silk threads on the body of the woolen shawls.
Ari or Aari Work, introduced during Mughal times, Aari uses a hooked needle to create vibrant chain-stitch motifs. It gives the shawl a raised, textured appearance that feels luxurious yet light.
The entire process of creating a single Pashmina shawl can take from a month to an entire year, or even more, depending upon the intricacy of the technique. The wool that is used for Pashmina is produced only once a year, which means the Kashmiri craftsmen and women have to be completely in sync with the clock of Nature.
Pashmina is a living legacy of Kashmir. For centuries, families have preserved this art, passing techniques from one generation to the next. Every artisan, from spinner to embroiderer, contributes to a tradition rooted in patience, prayer, and pride. The craft supports thousands of families across the valley and represents one of India’s most treasured GI-tagged heritages.
Once reserved for royalty and nobility, Pashmina was called the “Fabric of Kings.” It adorned emperors of the Mughal court and later became a mark of refinement in European fashion. Even today, owning an authentic Pashmina shawl is seen as a statement of elegance, heritage, and mindful luxury. Each piece embodies slow fashion handmade, sustainable, and steeped in meaning, connecting wearers to centuries of artistry.
Pashmina wool comes from the soft undercoat of the Changthangi goat found in Ladakh and the Himalayas. Herders comb the fleece each spring to collect fine fibers used in Kashmiri Pashmina shawls.
Raw Pashmina wool is cleaned with rice flour to remove oil, combed to eliminate impurities, and hand-spun by Kashmiri women on small wheels called Yender a process that can take over 20 hours for just 50 grams of fiber.
Artisans in Kashmir use natural dyes made from plants, roots, and minerals to color Pashmina yarns. Some shawls are dyed after weaving to achieve an even, elegant finish without harming the delicate fibers.
Kashmiri artisans weave Pashmina shawls on handlooms, interlacing fine warp and weft threads by hand. The process is entirely manual, preserving the fabric’s softness, strength, and signature lightweight texture.
Pashmina shawls feature Sozni, Kani, and Aari embroidery. Sozni uses silk threads for reversible patterns, Kani weaves motifs into the fabric, and Aari creates raised chain-stitch designs using a hooked needle.
Pashmina is a centuries-old Kashmiri craft symbolizing heritage, artistry, and identity. It sustains thousands of artisans, represents royal luxury, and embodies handmade, sustainable craftsmanship.
Pashmina comes from the undercoat of the Himalayan Changthangi goat, which produces fibers as fine as 12–16 microns. Regular wool is thicker and coarser, while Pashmina feels lighter, warmer, and softer to the touch.
Depending on the complexity of weaving and embroidery, it can take 2 to 12 months to complete a single shawl from collecting wool to final finishing.
Yes. The wool is gently combed from goats during molting season no harm is done to the animals. Handloom weaving and natural dyeing make it one of the most eco-conscious luxury textiles in the world.
Because it combines luxury with legacy fine Himalayan fiber, intricate handcrafting, centuries-old artistry, and unmatched comfort. Every authentic Pashmina is both a fashion statement and a cultural artifact.
Look for:
🔸GI Tag or certification label
🔸Soft, warm feel with slight irregularities (a sign of handwork)
🔸Burn test (fiber smells like burnt hair, not plastic), done only by experts
🔸High price point, reflecting craftsmanship and rarity
By purchasing genuine Kashmiri Pashmina, buyers become part of a cultural movement that sustains art, livelihood, and dignity. The people of Kashmir engaged in the meticulous craft of weaving Pashminas use the woolen canvas of these shawls to display their love for their region and it is because of the tireless labor of these artists that the beauty of Pashmina continues to charm admirers in the modern world.
Your email address will not be published *
Email a Friend
Manage Wishlist